Compost: The Natural Fertilizer

The use of compost for your lawn and garden is one of the most overlooked and yet simplest things a homeowner can do to improve their landscape.

To increase the organic matter in the soil of their gardens and flower beds, a lot of people will go down to their garden center and purchase large and costly bags of peat moss. It might also be used as a mulch in these places. What these people may not know is that compost serves the very same purposes - and more. Compost is the end product of organic materials that have been acted by microbes. And when compost is mixed into the soil it will improve the soil structure as well as increase the amount of organic matter. An added benefit to compost is that it supplies a very safe and slow release of nutrients. Unlike peat moss, compost can be used as a top dressing not only in gardens and flower beds but also as a top dressing to your lawn. This top dressing technique can be very effective if you have more thatch in your lawn than you should.

For most people, the ingredients to make their own compost is free and readily available. All that is needed are leaves (raked up in the previous Fall) and grass clippings from the mowing season. Because leaves may not be readily available during the mowing season, at that time any high carbon source of cellulose - such as wood sawdust, newspaper that has been printed with non-toxic soy ink, or strips of corrugated brown cardboard - can be mixed with the grass clippings. Then when the Fall arrives, you can start mixing the grass clipping compost with the a new composting pile that will include the Fall leaves. That way you will have the necessary mix of a high carbon source (the leaves) with a high nitrogen source (the grass clipping compost) to further encourage the growth of microbes in your compost pile.

There are gardeners who are compost enthusiasts. Some of them spend a lot of time attending their compost piles. Their approach is very “active”. They frequently turn the pile, add water, and even measure its internal temperature, all in an effort to produce finished compost more quickly. None of this, however, is necessary. Another equally effective approach to composting is the “passive” approach. With this technique you simply add to your compost pile occasionally, mixing in the "green" with the "brown", and then let Nature decompose the pile over a longer period of time.

Many people have shied away from composting because they have been told and they believe that compost piles are always smelly. This, however, should never be the case. A compost pile that does not include kitchen scraps or dog droppings should not have an objectionable odor. If it should have more odor than you care for, this can usually be remedied by taking a few shovelfuls of topsoil and sprinkling it over the top of the compost pile. Not only will this help with any odor problem, but you will be adding more microbes to the ingredients in your compost pile which will help break them down even faster.

Some final thoughts on composting. Your compost pile will break down significantly faster if you occasionally sprinkle the top with water when it has become dry due to lack of rain. Also, depending on how much attention you give your compost pile, you can obtain a good end product in anywhere from one month to two years. You will know that your compost pile is ready to use when it has turned very dark brown (almost black) and has a very crumbly consistency. At this point, none of the ingredients that went into your compost pile will be recognizable.

NOTE: If you would like to try your hand at composting, there is a ton of information on the internet. Try search engines or gardening sites for the term “composting”.

NEXT TIME: Protecting Your Lawn From Grub Damage

The Ideal Time To Plant Grass Seed

Although you may be able to plant grass seed at any time in the growing season, there is one time when planting grass seed is much less work and has a better chance of success.

The time when most people think about planting grass seed or spot-seeding bare patches in their lawn is the Springtime. But the biggest drawback then is that, by the time the seed has germinated and has reached a height of about an inch or so, the hot summer sun and heat will bear down on these new seedlings and take their toll. When you plant seed in the Springtime you must be absolutely vigilant on a daily basis to keep your seedlings moist and cool through the hot summer.

If you can afford to wait until just after the peak of summer heat, that is the time to start your seeding project. From this point on, the days should start getting a little cooler. And by the time your seedlings are an inch or so high there is much less chance that they will turn “crispy” under the Fall sun. Your seedlings will have all Autumn and all of next Spring to grow and toughen up before facing the extremes of the Summer sun. By that time they are much more likely to survive that heat.

Incidentally, just after the Summer heat is also the best time to plant or transplant most trees and shrubs. And, here again, the reasoning is the same. These plants will have almost a full year before they will be subjected to the extreme heat and drought conditions that can be brought on by the Summer sun. These plants will have almost a year for the roots to grow deeper and for the rest of the plant to become accustomed to its environment.

NEXT TIME: Compost: The Natural Fertilizer

Grass Trimmers or Weed Whips

Today I’d like to spend a few minutes discussing what is commonly known as a weed whip or grass trimmer.

The first thing I’d like to mention is that this power tool is commonly available in two slightly different styles. One style of weed whip incorporates a long shaft that curves slightly down at the “business end” of the trimmer. Over the years, I have found that this particular style will not hold up nearly as long as the second style. This second style, which costs a bit more, incorporates an entirely straight shaft and is sometimes referred to as a gear-drive shaft. When it comes to the longevity of these two styles, the straight or gear-driven shaft will outperform the bent flex shaft of the less expensive model every time. This wouldn’t be worth mentioning as most people understand that you get what you pay for, but I have recently noticed that sometimes the difference in price between these two models can be as little as $10. So if you’re looking for a weed whip that is built to hold up over many more years, always go with the straight shaft trimmer.

I also want to include here just a few suggestions with regard to using a power grass trimmer. ALWAYS wear eye protection - preferably safety glasses - while using this tool. Also, due to the nature of the cutting action, it is highly recommended that you wear long pants while weed whipping. And as it is always possible that small objects can be thrown very quickly and some distance from the business end of this tool, other people and pets should be kept at a distance.

One more thing. Because the plastic filament “blades” of this tool spin so quickly, they actually become invisible. Care must be taken not to run these filaments too aggressively along your house, a fence or - especially - a living tree or shrub. This tool, when used too aggressively, can remove paint, cut into dried wood, and kill a tree by cutting into and girdling the cambium layer just underneath surface bark.

NEXT TIME: The Ideal Time To Plant Grass Seed

Dry vs. Wet Applications of Broadleaf Weed Killer

If you find yourself with broadleaf weeds in your lawn that you’d like to get rid of, you have several different options:

If your lawn is almost weed-free - with only an occasional dandelion or other broadleaf weed - you may find it more convenient to just pull or dig them out by hand without the use of any kind of chemicals.

If you have more than just a few weeds but most of your lawn is weed-free, you may find your solution in the form of a ready-to-use spray bottle of point-and-shoot broadleaf weed killer.

If, however, you have broad sections of your lawn that are heavily infested with broadleaf weeds, you will probably want to consider one of two other options. The first option is the use of a granular weed-and-feed. This method can save you time because while you are feeding your lawn you are also taking steps to eliminate broadleaf weeds. It should be noted here that the chemicals used to kill broadleaf weeds work best when they are dissolved in water and make contact with the broad leaf surface of these weeds. So what this means is that if you are going to use a granular weed-and-feed on your lawn, you should do so at a time when your lawn and its weeds are wet. If you make this application of granular weed-and-feed early enough in the morning, you may find that your lawn and its weeds are very wet from the dew. Otherwise, it is best to water your lawn lightly before applying the granular weed-and-feed.

The second option (if you have a lot of broadleaf weeds) is to spray your entire lawn with a liquid containing broadleaf weed killer. This is one of my favorite methods as it does not require the wetting of the lawn before the application. At your local gardening center you can purchase pre-mixed bottles meant to be connected to the end of your hose for use in spraying weeds. Or, if you are up to it, you can make separate purchases of an empty calibrated hose-end sprayer and the liquid broadleaf weed killer, then do the mixing yourself.

Regardless of your method, if you are using chemicals to kill your weeds, there are some precautions. Be sure to read, understand, and follow all instructions on the label of any product you use. I strongly suggest wearing rubber gloves and waterproof boots while you are handling and applying broadleaf weed killing products. It is also important to not allow children or pets on a recently sprayed lawn while that lawn is still damp. And lastly, I would like to mention that if you are spraying your lawn, you should be very careful not to allow the spray to drift off the lawn areas and onto nearby shrubbery or into flower beds.

NEXT TIME: Grass Trimmers and Weed Whips

Granular Fertilizer Spreaders

If you’re going to feed your lawn with a granular type of fertilizer, you basically have 2 choices as to the type of spreader you can use.

One option is a drop-type spreader. This type of spreader has been around for many decades. In a drop-type spreader, the fertilizer (or any other dry product you want to apply to your lawn) is placed in the hopper and then, while the spreader is being moved, the fertilizer is accurately metered out through adjustable slits at the bottom. Also, inside the hopper (just above the slits) there is an agitator bar that spins at the same time that one of the wheels on the spreader turns. When using this type of spreader it is important to use the off-lever at any time you do not want to be dropping the contents of your spreader. Like anything else, there are pros and cons to using this type of spreader. On the pro side, it can be used to deliver a very precise amount of product on your lawn. On the con side, sometimes this precision is not desirable. For example, have you ever noticed a lawn that appeared to have stripes of light and dark green running through it or an appearance of a checkerboard pattern? This is almost always the result of fertilizer being applied with a drop-type spreader.

The other option in spreaders is a type that is referred to as a broadcast spreader. With this type of spreader, the material being applied falls out of the hopper from an adjustable hole at the bottom then strikes a horizontally spinning plate which throws the material out in random waves. A common example of this type of mechanism is that used by street salting trucks during the winter. One of the advantages of the broadcast spreader when applying fertilizer is that you will not end up with stripes and criss-crosses through your lawn. Another advantage is that you will not have to be concerned with how accurately you overlap or don’t overlap each pass. Other advantages include: putting small amounts of fertilizer down evenly and putting large amounts of fertilizer down quickly. There are times, however, when the broadcast type should not be your choice of spreaders. If you are applying a product that must be applied very accurately across your lawn or if you are applying a product like a pesticide, then a broadcast spreader should not be your choice. If you are going to apply a granular type of weed-and-feed fertilizer or some type of insecticide mixed with your fertilizer, a broadcast spreader would have a tendency to throw this pesticide out into areas other than your lawn (perhaps into a flower bed or into a nearby swimming pool).

The bottom line here is, if you’re going to apply straight fertilizer (without any pesticides included) your best choice is probably the broadcast spreader. If, on the other hand, you want to spread any kind of pesticide (either by itself or mixed with fertilizer) then your choice should be the drop-type spreader. The ideal situation here would be to own both types of spreaders. That way you can choose the right spreader depending on the application. One last note: Any spreader that is kept empty, clean and dry when not in use can last for decades. When a spreader is not properly cared for, it can become unusable in one year’s time.

NEXT TIME: Dry vs. Wet Applications of Broadleaf Weed Killer

Selective vs. Non-Selective Herbicides

What I’d like to discuss today is the difference between selective and non-selective herbicides.

There is a product on the market that is very popular called Round-Up. This product is a vegetation killer. This product does not distinguish between a dandelion in your lawn or grass growing in the cracks of a sidewalk. If it is green, this product can be used to kill it. It is therefore referred to as a non-selective herbicide.

Another very popular product on the market is called Weed-B-Gone. This product is also a vegetation killer. However, this product’s purpose is to kill only broadleaf plants (or weeds). Because this product will not harm the grass in your turf, it is considered a selective herbicide.

If you are looking for a product to spot-treat broadleaf weeds in your lawn, you must select a product that is a selective herbicide. Otherwise, instead of just killing a weed here and there in your lawn, you will end up with dead spots wherever you have sprayed. If, on the other hand, your intent is to get rid of vegetation from the cracks of the sidewalk or from a mulched portion of a flower bed, you will want to use a non-selective herbicide. Oftentimes the undesirable plants you will find in the cracks or sticking up through the mulch will be a combination of both weedy grasses and broadleaf weeds.

The important thing to remember here is that if you are looking for a product to use on your lawn, it must be a selective herbicide - a product that will select out and kill only dandelions, plantain, thistle, or whatever broadleaf weeds may be in your lawn.

My advice to anyone that is unfamiliar with lawn chemicals is to be sure and describe accurately to your store clerk the type of plant you are trying to kill and to explain to them whether it is in your lawn or not.

I mention these two different kinds of herbicides today because, first, I have seen all too often the results of a homeowner unknowingly spot spraying their lawn with a product that is non-selective, such as Round-Up. It is not a pretty picture. And secondly, I have seen the frustration of homeowners repeatedly trying to kill different types of grass in the cracks of their sidewalks or the mulch of their flower beds with a selective broadleaf weed killer, such as Weed-B-Gone.

My final note here is that you must always read and understand the entire instructions on the label of any yard chemical you might use.Also, follow any instructions and take any precations that are advised.

NEXT TIME: Granular Fertilizer Spreaders

P.S. If you find any of my posts helpful or if you have any comments or recommendations, I would be grateful to hear from you.

How Much Should You Water Your Lawn?

Most lawns will do just fine with about 1 inch of water a week. This amount will provide the type of watering needed to encourage the grass roots to grow deep. Oftentimes this amount will be provided by rainfall, especially in the Springtime. So if a week has gone by since you have watered and there has been no rain, watering your lawn is in order. And if there is no rain in the forecast for the next few days, I suggest watering your lawn thoroughly so that it receives approximately 1 inch of water.

One of the easiest ways to know when you have applied an inch worth of water is, before you start watering, to place tuna cans or similar containers inside the area to be watered. When these containers are holding an inch of water, your lawn should have received enough to last it another week.

There are times when you can water your lawn and deliberately put less than one inch of water down. One situation would be that it rained several days ago but only half an inch. In this case you could make up the difference by giving it only another half an inch of water. Another situation where you might want to water but not to a full inch is where the soil is not particularly dry and the weatherman’s forecast is for heavy rain within the next few days. The type of watering I have been discussing here is considered “deep watering”, and this type of watering can keep the soil and the roots of the turf moist for several days.

There is a second type of watering that serves an entirely different purpose. This type is referred to as “syringing”. With syringing it is not the amount of water that you put down that is important, but rather the timing of that watering. The purpose of syringing is to cool down and refresh heat and sun-stressed turf during mid-afternoon. An analogy here is a person baking on a sunny beach and spraying themselves with a mister of cool water. The technique of syringing your lawn involves applying water in a fine spray to the surface of the turf only. If you use an irrigation system to water your lawn, syringing can be accomplished by simply turning on each zone for just a few minutes. If, on the other hand, you manually water your lawn, the nozzle on the end of your hose should be adjusted to a spray while you quickly cover just the top of the blades of grass.

As I have mentioned before, there is an old wives tale that states, “You should not water your lawn on a hot sunny day because you will burn it.” And I will say again, this is bunk. The fact of the matter is, a lawn that is sprayed with the syringing method can - and will - take in that water through the surface blades of grass, and this will go a long way toward helping your turf survive extreme heat and sun-stress.

NEXT TIME: Selective vs. Non-Selective Herbicides