Lawn Care Tips

2005-05-13T15:35:00.000-04:00

Dripping wet blades of grass.

2005-05-13T15:27:00.000-04:00

Pachysandra

Environmentalists Demand Alternatives to Pesticide Use

2005-04-30T23:30:00.001-04:00

More and more homeowners are trying to find ways to reduce or eliminate the use of traditional pesticides in their lawns (and sometimes even in the lawns of their neighbors).

Some environmentally conscious homeowners believe that many traditional pesticides are much more dangerous and unhealthy than the pesticide industry would have us believe. Quite a few cities in Canada have already taken steps to restrict the use of some traditional pesticides. This backlash against pesticide use seems to be gaining momentum.

If you are unfamiliar with this growing battle between environmental groups and the pesticide industry, I’d like to refer you to a recent article written by

Bruce Taylor Seeman with Newhouse News Service

Bruce does a good job of outlining the health concerns of the environmental groups and the responses that the pesticide manufacturers have regarding these concerns.

You Need To Get Down On Your Hands And Knees

2005-04-29T21:15:00.000-04:00

For any homeowner who is serious about caring for his lawn, you must occasionally get down on your hands and knees and get your eyeballs into the lawn. If you donÂt do this once in a while you may miss an opportunity to discover early that small insects may have invaded your lawn or that a lawn disease is in its early stages.

When youÂre looking closely at your lawn, look for unusual discoloration or spots on the leaf blades. Also, when youÂre down and close like this you can get a pretty good idea of how sharp your mower blade is by how clean the cut is. If most of the cut leaves of grass do not have fuzzy white-ish fibers sticking out past the cut line, your mower blade is probably sharp enough.

If youÂre examining your lawn close up and your lawn looks a little thinner than it has and the grass leaf blades appear to be folded along a center crease, this may indicate that the grass is trying to protect itself when it is very hot and dry. Although this is not necessarily cause for alarm, this folding of the leaves becomes quite obvious when you are down and close to the lawn. So if your lawn has been getting an adequate supply of water, then the folded leaves are just an interesting bit of plant behavior. Also on close examination, chances are pretty good that you will notice an insect, a spider or perhaps an ant here and there. But again, unless you find these in great numbers, you need not be concerned.

Most lawns are made up of several desirable varieties of grass. For instance, many bluegrass lawns also contain fescues and perennial rye. When standing over the lawn it can be very difficult to distinguish the different varieties that are mixed together. However, examining the length, width, color, smoothness, etc. of the grass blades when you are close up will help you identify the different types of grass that make up your lawn.

The whole point of getting down and close to your lawn is to become better acquainted with your lawn, the soil it grows in, and the insects that live there. And besides, getting down on your hands and knees and poking around through the grass can be a bit of an adventure. The kind of adventure maybe not experienced since childhood - and we could all use more of those.

NEXT TIME: I will try to post some links to information on the net that lawn care enthusiasts may find useful.

Lawn Diseases

2005-04-28T23:30:00.000-04:00

There are several lawn diseases that can appear on a homeowner’s lawn. Some diseases are more harmful than others but some of the damage can often be reduced by the cultural practices of the homeowner.

Most lawn diseases only start after favorable conditions develop, and then if these conditions remain the disease will spread. Favorable conditions for a lawn disease may include turf that is under extreme stress and turf growing in poor soil conditions. Even the weather can impact the development of a lawn disease.

One of the easiest things a homeowner can do to avoid or lessen a disease in their lawn is to plant disease resistant varieties of grass. It also helps to use grass mixes and blends of different varieties of grass, as, if a disease affects one variety of your turf mix it may leave the others alone. Two other cultural practices include not over-watering or over-fertilizing your lawn, as some diseases prefer wet conditions or high nitrogen.

Diseases such as Dollar Spot, Red Thread, and Rust are apt to appear in lawns that are low on fertility and high on moisture. Other diseases that might appear under conditions of excess nitrogen and a heavy thatch condition include Leaf Spot (sometimes referred to as “Melting Out”) or Snow Mold. Lawn diseases that are apt to appear where there is a heavy clay soil, soil compaction or heavy thatch include Summer Patch, Necrotic Ring Spot, and Fusarium Blight.

Although some lawn diseases are easily identified, others may be much more difficult. My advice to a homeowner is that if they suspect a lawn disease has infected their lawn, they contact a professional. It can be very difficult for a homeowner to differentiate one disease from another and sometimes to even differentiate between disease and insect damage. A professional, however, makes these determinations on a regular basis. Payment for his advise is usually money well spent.

There is also a lot of good information on “lawn diseases” on the internet and it as close as your favorite search engine.

NEXT TIME: You Need To Get Down On Your Hands And Knees

The Best Kept Lawns Have The Most Problems

2005-04-27T23:00:00.000-04:00

A lawn tends to adapt itself to the care and treatment that it receives from the homeowner. If a homeowner indulges his lawn with regular watering, regular feeding, and regular use of pesticides, his lawn will adapt itself and come to expect the continuation of this treatment.

It is important to understand that when a lawn is subjected in a limited way to drought, insect infestation or disease, it builds some resistance to these conditions. There is the process of natural selection at work.

If you water your lawn on a very regular basis you will be cultivating many thousands of individual grass plants that are all accustomed to receiving regular watering. Now if something should happen to disrupt this regular watering - such as an imposed watering ban or an extended trip away from home - this lawn will find itself without all the water it has grown accustomed to receiving. This lawn will be less able to survive any type of drought as compared to another lawn that has become adapted to periodic droughts. During a drought any individual grass plants that are intolerant to drought are apt to die out. In a lawn that has become adapted to an occasional drought there will be many individual grass plants that are in fact very well adapted to prolonged drought. When these adapted lawns begin to receive water or rain again, it is these drought resistant grass plants that will be left to reproduce themselves.

This same adaptability also holds true when it comes to a lawn’s resistance to attacks by insects and disease. If you continually apply preventative chemicals - such as pesticides and fungicides - your lawn will have less chance to develop its own natural resistance to attacking forces. Also, it should be noted that if you maintain the lushest, greenest and healthiest lawn in your neighborhood, then your lawn may become the lawn of choice for hungry grass-eating insects looking for a place to lay their eggs.

The bottom line here is that natural selection is always at work despite what you do or don’t do for your lawn. If you want your lawn to have more natural resistance to whatever Mother Nature might throw at it, don’t be too regular and too quick to intercede on your lawn’s behalf. Your lawn will adapt to that behavior and you are apt to become a slave to your lawn.

NEXT TIME: Lawn Diseases

More Homeowners Are Turning To Native Grasses As Their Turf Of Choice

2005-04-26T22:30:00.000-04:00

A growing number of homeowners are trying to find low maintenance alternatives to the common American lawn. Many of them are turning to native grasses.

In order to better explain the growing popularity of native grasses, let me first discuss the more commonly used turf grasses. Many of today’s turf grasses were either brought to this country by immigrants or they are relatively new products developed by horticultural research scientists. These recently introduced grasses have not had time to evolve and adapt for survival in the places they are used the way that native grasses have.

Native grasses are those grasses that have existed in their environments for thousands of years. They are well adapted to whatever Mother Nature may throw their way. They tend to survive harsh freezing weather, extreme droughts, severe insect damage, and many different diseases. In addition, they survive quite well given a lot less nutrients than the grasses typically used for homeowner’s lawns.

Some grasses native to the U.S.A. include:

Bluestem,
Buffalograss,
Indiangrass, and
Switchgrass.

There are also seed mixtures of these and other native grasses available.

Most native grasses are well suited for use in pastures (uncut), but several are being used more and more as lawns on homeowners’ property. If you decide to give native grasses a try, it is important that you select the varieties that are particularly native to the part of the country in which you live.

The bottom line here is that you can minimize or eliminate much of the work, expense, and chemical applications typically associated with the common turf type species of grass. If you are interested in learning more about native grasses, I encourage you to use your favorite search engine directed toward “native grasses”.

NEXT TIME: The Best Kept Lawns Have The Most Problems

More and More People Are Growing Less and Less Lawn

2005-04-25T23:45:00.000-04:00

According to some historians, the concept of having a lawn grew out of the idea that having a lawn represented wealth, that the landowner could afford to leave a large portion of his property “unproductive”. A lawn meant the landowner could afford to purchase any food that he or any animals he owned might need. Otherwise, he would have had to put all of his land into production, like other people did.

This concept that large open expanses of green lawns represented success and prosperity has lingered for hundreds of years. There has, however, been a movement over the last 20 or 30 years or so that has challenged this age old custom. This movement is made up of people who believe that a lawn does not have to be the main focus of their property and that maybe it shouldn’t be. The people who feel this way tend to increase the size of flower beds, vegetable gardens, shrubbery beds, and naturalized areas in lieu of a large expanse of lawn.

The people who act on these beliefs may have different motivations. For some, they are unwilling or unable to care for a large expanse of lawn. Some others are just avid flower or vegetable gardeners and they need the room for their gardens. However there is another group - in fact a group that is growing - that believes a large expanse of turf is not only unnecessary but harmful to the environment. This group believes that the huge amounts of toxic substances (such as insecticides, fungicides and herbicides) along with the overused synthetic fertilizers do more harm to the environment than they are worth. Although the people in this group may not totally eliminate all lawn areas in their landscape, they do make efforts to minimize these areas.

Some of the alternatives to a large lawn include: naturalized areas (wild uncut grasses, wildflowers, or even small wood lots) or extensively cultivated areas (hybrid flower gardens, vegetable gardens and fruit trees). I guess the bottom line here is that if you have ever felt that you have more lawn area on your property than you want, there are plenty of attractive options.

NEXT TIME: More Homeowners Are Turning To Native Grasses As Their Turf Of Choice

Soil vs. Dirt

2005-04-24T22:15:00.000-04:00

You can take what I have to say today with a grain of salt. It is just my personal preference and personal opinion with regard to using the term “dirt” when one is speaking about “soil”.

When I was young and had no understanding of the complexities of soil, I referred to soil as just dirt. If I had spent the day playing outdoors - perhaps digging or making mud pies or whatever - upon entering my home I was apt to hear the words from my mother, “Go wash that dirt off your hands!” And as the substance on my hands needed to be washed off, it truly was dirt. It was dirt because I had to scrub it off. I had to get it out from under my nails. It was dirt because it made me unclean.

Later, when I was older and studying horticulture, I gained a keen appreciation for all the dynamic interactions taking place in soil. From that time to this I have never referred to soil as dirt. Good rich topsoil can take centuries to develop. It is dynamic and is filled with all kinds of life, such as microbes, worms, fungi, insects, roots and more. It contains minerals and small rocks that vary in size from that of silt to pebbles. Soil also usually contains organic matter which is the decaying remnants of plant and animal life.

Now chances are pretty good that if you go down to your garden center and tell them that you need a few bags of dirt, they will know what you mean and direct you to a pallet loaded with bags of topsoil. After all, there will be nothing in the garden center labeled as “Dirt”. And, as we all learned as children, dirt is something to be avoided or to be washed away. The bottom line here is that because soil is the foundation of so many life forms on this planet that I have a very difficult time referring to it as lowly “dirt”. I prefer to give it the respect it deserves.

NEXT TIME: More and More People Are Growing Less and Less Lawn

Not All Grassy Weeds Are Crabgrass

2005-04-23T23:45:00.000-04:00

It is important for homeowners to understand that crabgrass can be easily confused with other weedy grasses. Knowing certain characteristics of crabgrass will go a long way toward eliminating this confusion.

Most desirable lawn grasses have relatively narrow leaves. These grasses include: Bluegrass, Creeping Red Fescue, Chewing Fescue and others. Native wild grasses, on the other hand - such as quack grass, barnyard grass, goose grass, buffalo grass and even foxtail - tend to have a much wider leaf blade. Crabgrass also has a wide bladed leaf but it has other characteristics that make it easily identified.

First of all, crabgrass is an annual and will not survive any frost. Therefore, you will not find crabgrass in your lawn when temperatures still drop to or below freezing at night. And when crabgrass first starts to sprout it will have several very short and wide blades that are a much lighter green than the rest of the lawn. Crabgrass also has much less fiber content in its leaves than most other grasses. In fact, if you pull off a blade of crabgrass and smash it then roll it between your forefinger and thumb, it will basically become green mush. Crabgrass also tends to hold a lot of water in its leaves. This is why crabgrass is often called “water grass”. Another characteristic is that the growing habit of crabgrass tends to be more prostrate and spreading than upright. Probably the most distinguishing characteristic of crabgrass is its seed producing pattern. This pattern is somewhat reminiscent of an open umbrella with the fabric removed. The seed heads contain several long shafts radiating out in different directions that are covered with very tiny seeds. Another identifying feature of crabgrass is that when the temperature starts to get very cool, but not yet freezing, crabgrass will become almost violet in color.

The bottom line here is that if you’re going to take the time and spend the money on a crabgrass killer, make sure that it is crabgrass and not some other weedy grass that you’re trying to get rid of. I say this because crabgrass killer is selective - it will have an effect on crabgrass but not on most other grasses, even though those other grasses may be weedy. If you feel that you might still have difficulty identifying crabgrass, a quick search on your favorite search engine should supply you with more than enough pictures.

NEXT TIME: Soil vs. Dirt

Some Considerations When Refueling Your Lawnmower

2005-04-22T22:30:00.000-04:00

Today I’d like to briefly discuss a property of gasoline that may not be commonly understood. That property involves the changeable volume of gasoline based on changes to its temperature.

Most people are aware that the liquid in a thermometer expands and contracts based on the surrounding temperature. Like the liquid in a thermometer, gasoline will also expand or contract with changes in temperature. I’m sorry to say that I have learned this lesson - and then re-learned this lesson - on several occasions. The circumstances go something like this: I am running gasoline powered equipment. I run out of gasoline. And then, because I am eager to finish the job without having to stop again to refuel, I fill the gas tank of my power equipment too high. I set the fuel can down and reach for the gas tank cap, but before I can actually get the cap on I notice the gasoline continuing to rise and suddenly overflowing the gas tank. My mistake here was not leaving enough room in the tank for the gas to expand. This has also happened to me a couple of times where I had finished securing the gas tank cap and suddenly the gasoline started squirting out the air hole in the center of the cap.

Needless to say, this is a potentially explosive situation. Particularly if the engine you are refueling is very hot. The lessons I learned here are usually spelled out in the Owner’s Manual for any gasoline powered equipment. Most manuals will tell you, “Do not overfill the gas tank when refilling.” They will also mention that refilling an engine that is still hot should be avoided. And most power mower manuals will recommend that you not refuel the mower while it is still on the lawn. (Any gasoline spilled on the lawn will not explode but it will definitely kill the grass.) And, of course, due to the explosive nature of gasoline when ignited, it is a very bad idea to refuel power equipment if there are any nearby sparks, flames or burning cigarettes.

Finally, if you are using any two-cycle engines (be it a mower, weed-whip or blower), I highly recommend: 1) storing your two-cycle gasoline mixture in a clearly identifiable gas can, and 2) that you do your mixing as soon as possible after refilling that gas can. If you do not have a clearly marked two-cycle gas can and you mistakenly refill your two-cycle engine with straight unmixed gas, there is a very good possibility that your two-cycle engine will overheat and be destroyed in short order. And the reason I suggest mixing your gasoline as soon as possible (meaning at the gas station) is that way you are not apt to forget that the gasoline needs to be mixed before it can be used in a two-cycle engine.

In summary, always read, understand and follow all the safety precautions in your power equipment manual. Remember when you are refueling that one gallon of gasoline has the explosive power of several sticks of dynamite.

NEXT TIME: Not All Grassy Weeds Are Crabgrass

Spring Loaded Downspout Extensions

2005-04-21T23:00:00.000-04:00

There was a time when rainwater landing on a homeowner’s roof would be diverted from a gutter system to downspouts that were connected directly to a municipality’s storm drain system. Today, the water running through a homeowner’s downspout is usually released at the base of the downspout and directed onto the ground at a spot close to the foundation.

Sometimes homeowners will run an extension from the end of their downspout and out a ways onto their lawn or into their flower bed so as to minimize excess water near the foundation. The problem with most downspout extensions - besides not being very attractive and becoming a tripping or mowing hazard - is that they do not slow down or spread out the flow of water at their ends. And if such an extension ends in a flower or shrubbery bed that is mulched with nuggets or shredded bark, then chances are pretty good that an average rainfall will wash the mulch away from the area at the end of the extension. Furthermore, rainwater exiting a downspout or its extension directly onto a homeowner’s lawn is apt to wash away topsoil and cause a thinning of the grass in these frequently flooded areas.

It is common to find splash guards or splash blocks at the base of many homeowner’s downspouts. But although these help to slow the water down and to spread it out, the excess water is usually still too close to the foundation. Fortunately there are a products on the market that seem to solve many of the problems associated with downspouts and extensions. The mechanism by which this product works is reminiscent of common party favors called blowouts. When the party-goer blows into a blowout, a rolled up paper with a thin metal coil inside shoots out and becomes a long air filled tube. Then when the party-goer stops blowing, releasing the pressure, the tube immediately collapses and returns to its coiled position. The product for downspouts - often referred to as a “rain drain” and made of vinyl - will remain in a coiled position at the base of downspouts. One end of the vinyl is secured around the downspout, the other end is sealed except for a few small holes. When sufficient water pressure from rain causes the coil to unwind and stretch out, the water is allowed to escape in a more gentle manner and about four feet away from the foundation. Then when most of the water has left the vinyl tube, the tube flattens out and coils back up out of the flower bed or off the lawn and out of the way.

So the next time you’re looking for an alternative downspout extension, consider this self-expanding and self-retracting product. It will help to get more water away from your foundation and yet will be gentler on the bed or your lawn where it is used.

P.S. If you are interested in more info on this product just visit the URL below:
http://www.rainguardusa.com/
downspout-gutter-extension-4-foot-white-p-32.html

NEXT TIME: Some Considerations When Refueling Your Lawnmower

Keep That Mulch Off Your Lawn

2005-04-20T23:15:00.000-04:00

Regardless of what you use as a mulch in a flower or shrubbery bed, it is important to make sure that material stays in the bed and out of the nearby lawn.

First off, if the mulch material is shredded bark or bark nuggets it can easily become hidden in 3 to 4” tall grass. When it comes time to mow, this type of material can definitely take the edge off your mower blade. There is also the danger that pieces of this mulch will get thrown out at high velocity from the underside of the mower deck. This same hazard exists if you use a weed whip to trim along the turf at the bed’s edge.

A third reason to keep pieces of mulch out of the lawn at the bed’s edge is because it may build up and start to smother the edge of the turf. This is particularly true if small pieces of hidden mulch get repeatedly stepped on or rolled over with the mower’s wheels.

One of the best ways to keep mulching materials in bounds is by using edging material positioned so that the top of the edging is higher than the surface of the mulch. It would also help to discourage pets from disturbing your mulched beds.

If you find it very difficult to keep your mulching material where it belongs - and out of the grass - you may want to consider planting a ground cover in the bed instead of using mulch. Common ground covers used this way are myrtle, pachysandra, and a variety of sedums. I have also seen prostrate or “rug” juniper used effectively as a ground cover.

Photo below illustrates the proper use of edging between a lawn and a mulched bed.

NEXT TIME: Spring Loaded Downspout Extensions

My Favorite Ground Cover In Areas Close To My Lawn

2005-04-19T22:00:00.000-04:00

Years ago I was not much of a fan of ground covers. They always seemed too invasive and too hard to maintain. Then I discovered pachysandra, sometimes referred to as pachysandra terminalis or Japanese Spurge.

Pachysandra is a broadleaf evergreen that stands about a foot tall. It has a small off-white flower in the Spring that is not particularly showy. The foliage of pachysandra in the spring is green tinged with purple, in the summer it is bright green, and in the winter (or when planted in sunnier locations) it is a more yellow green. Pachysandra is a very shade tolerant plant and will do well in full to partial shade. It prefers a moist to wet, well-drained, loam or sandy soil that is rich in organic matter.

There are several reasons why I prefer pachysandra as a good multi-purpose ground cover. First, because - unlike so many other plants - it does well in dense shade. And because it will tolerate a pH range from 3.5 to 6.0, it will also grow under evergreens when many other plants will not. Additionally, pachysandra is extremely easy to grow and maintain in Climate Zones from 3 to 8.

One of the downsides of using pachysandra as a ground cover is its high cost when purchased at a garden center. It can easily cost $25 or more per flat. Another downside is that it is meant to initially be planted in a sparse one-foot grid pattern. So the first year you put in pachysandra it will not look its best; in fact, it will look its worst. The following year it will begin to fill in and start looking more like the ground cover it is. By the third year, it will be dense and standing proud.

Some of the reasons I am particularly fond of pachysandra include the following. If it creeps into the lawn it is easily removed or controlled. If your lawn starts to creep into the pachysandra it’s very easy to remove the grass without harming the pachysandra. One of my all-time favorite benefits of pachysandra is that in the Autumn when tree leaves fall onto pachysandra they do not need to be removed. All that is necessary is to take a soft broom or the back side of a lawn rake and gently sweep the top of the pachysandra. When you do this the dry leaves will fall down into the ground cover and out of sight. As those hidden leaves decay they will produce nutrients for the pachysandra. Lastly, although pachysandra is expensive when purchased, once established it is easy to transplant and start new sections of the ground cover in other areas of your landscape. If you have a friend or neighbor who has had pachysandra growing in their yard for three or more years, they might even be willing to let you have some clippings so that you can start cultivating your own.

So the next time you’re looking for a tough and versatile ground cover that will look good next to your lawn all year round, consider pachysandra. It’s my favorite. See photo below.

NEXT TIME: Keep That Mulch Off Your Lawn

Dealing With Grass When It Becomes A Weed

2005-04-18T23:30:00.000-04:00

Sometimes the grass in a homeowner’s lawn will find its way into areas in which it does not belong. Some of these areas may include flower beds, vegetable gardens, shrubbery and beds that are mulched (meant to be plant free).

Some grasses - including Kentucky Bluegrass - can reproduce themselves by way of underground rhizomes. These adventurous rhizomes will grow and spread out below the surface of the soil. They then produce new grass plants, sometimes a foot or more away from the original grass plant that sent out the rhizome. Now mind you, when this happens within the confines of the area you designate as your lawn, this is an ideal situation. Basically, it means that your lawn is self-repairing. However, your lawn will also send out exploratory rhizomes that will find their way into places outside your lawn where you do not want grass to grow.

One of the easiest ways of preventing the grass in your lawn from finding its way into areas not considered your lawn is to use edging. Basically, edging acts as a barrier to adventurous grass roots and rhizomes. Black plastic edging is commonly available in most lawn and garden shops. The use of this type of edging will go a long way toward keeping grass in bounds.

Sometimes, despite a homeowner’s best efforts, grass will find its way into places it doesn’t belong. Sometimes this grass can be eliminated simply by pulling and removing all of the grass and its roots. However, sometimes this is more easily said than done. It can be very difficult to remove grass growing through certain groundcovers, under shrubbery and in dense flowerbeds. Trying to remove grass in these areas by hand may destroy the look of the groundcover or flowerbed. Although I believe that lawn care pesticides should only be used when absolutely necessary, a product on the market called Grass-B-Gon is very well-suited for situations where the removal of grass by hand is impractical. This product will kill only grass plants so it is safe to use around groundcovers, shrubbery and flowers.

Keep in mind that the best defense in these matters is prevention, with the use of edging and hand-pulling before the situation gets out of control.

NEXT TIME: My Favorite Ground Cover In Areas Close To My Lawn

Defining A Weed

2005-04-17T21:00:00.000-04:00

One day over 20 years ago when I was studying horticulture, the professor announced he would be defining the term “weed” that day. His definition was very simple and I have never forgotten it. He said, “A weed is any plant out of place.”

There are some interesting implications with this definition. Most people consider dandelions weeds and yet there are many people who cultivate dandelions intentionally to be used as food or in medical preparations. The people who do this would never consider their crop “weeds”. Another example is clover. Many homeowners go to great lengths in order to rid their lawn of any trace of clover. On the other hand, there are a growing number of homeowners who intentionally scatter clover seed into their lawns. So one homeowner considers clover a weed and another considers clover to be a great way of naturally increasing the nitrogen content in their lawn’s soil.

There is another way to consider the above definition of a weed. Many gardeners commonly plant violets in their flower beds. It’s a very attractive plant with a very showy flower. Unfortunately, violets are very invasive and once they start growing in a lawn they can be very difficult to get rid of. So the question is, are violets a flower or a weed? I believe the answer is written in the first paragraph. It is only a weed if it is growing where it is unwanted, if it is out of place.

There are many plants that, depending on where they are growing, could be considered a desirable plant or they could be considered a weed. There are far too many plants to mention here that could easily fit into either of these two categories, but a few that you may be familiar with include: Wild Garlic, Queen Anne’s Lace and Ferns.

The bottom line here is that any plant growing in your lawn that you don’t want to see growing in your lawn is a weed. By the same token, if Kentucky Bluegrass has crept into your flower garden then even Kentucky Bluegrass has become a weed.

NEXT TIME: Dealing With Grass When It Becomes A Weed

One Indicator That You May Have An Insect Problem In Your Lawn

2005-04-16T23:30:00.000-04:00

The sooner a homeowner realizes that a potential insect problem exists in his lawn, the sooner he can take action to mitigate any possible damage.

Certain insects, such as grubs, do their damage unseen while chewing on grass roots. Another insect - Sod Webworm - may go unnoticed until the homeowner mows their lawn. Fortunately Mother Nature can often provide the alert homeowner with an early warning system that there may be an impending insect problem. This early warning system involves birds.

If you notice more birds than usual on your lawn, and they seem to be sticking their beaks down into the lawn, they can very well be going after grubs. If you walk out to the area where all the birds were pecking and you notice small openings down to the soil below in a concentrated area of your lawn, that’s a pretty good indication of a grub problem. Keep in mind that I’m not talking about an occasional bird, pecking here and there. I’m talking about several birds in one area of your lawn with behavior as noted above. In other words, if you occasionally see a robin searching for worms, you have no reason for concern. Also, if you suspect a grub problem due to increased bird activity, you can always cut into your sod and take a peek underneath. If you see more than two or three grubs per square foot underneath your sod, you may want to consider treating affected areas with milky spore disease.

Another example of birds giving a homeowner an early warning of an insect problem is the gathering of small birds (such as sparrows) in large numbers on your lawn. If you notice these birds just standing around, not really doing much of anything, spend a few minutes watching them very closely. These birds may be watching for mature Sod Webworm moths to flutter up out of your lawn, flutter off a few feet and then drop back into the lawn. Apparently, when there is a large population of Sod Webworm moths in a lawn, rather than seeking out the moths while they’re in the lawn, these small birds prefer to wait until the moth is airborne and then chase after it in the hopes of it providing a meal. So if you notice small birds chasing small moths on your lawn, you should investigate further to determine whether or not you have an infestation of sod webworm. If you take the back side of a leaf rake and gently brush the top of the lawn in the areas with the heaviest bird activity, and you notice several lawn moths fluttering up, you may want to apply liquid dish soap in a hose end sprayer. (See previous post, “Your Lawn Loves A Good Lather”.)

And finally, I’d like to suggest that if you notice large numbers of birds on your lawn, that you not scare them off or discourage them. After all, they are preying on insects that will cause harm to your lawn.

NEXT TIME: Defining A Weed

Photo Author: kittenpuff1

Your Lawn Loves A Good Lather

2005-04-15T21:15:00.000-04:00

Many homeowners are very reluctant to use any of the various pesticide products available at most lawn and garden centers. Although there are some new “supposedly” safer products on the market - one example being the insecticidal soaps - most pesticides are by their very nature toxic. And they are toxic not only for the intended target, but often they are toxic to people, pets, and other animals not intentionally targeted. Unintentional targets may include birds, fish, and beneficial insects.

My personal feeling with regard to these toxic pesticides is that if a homeowner can get by without using them or find a way of using anything less toxic then that’s a better way to go. There was a time when DDT was hailed as the best thing to ever come along for battling a wide variety of destructive insects. And then later it was realized that DDT had long term harmful side effects all through the environment, particularly with birds. DDT was removed from the market and replaced with another chemical that was considered safe. Again, some time later, it was found not to be safe and it too was removed. Some of the common pesticides used today (including diazinon, 2,4-D and dozens of others) are labeled as being safe - if used properly. I wonder which pesticide will be pulled off the market next. I guess what I’m asking here is that if you can kill a fly with a fly swatter why use a sledgehammer?

One of my own personal favorite pesticides is called liquid dish soap. Another is rubbing alcohol. And a third is ammonia. I have used all of these at one time or another - either by themselves or in different combinations - in my own yard. For example, liquid dish soap does not sit well in the digestive tracts of insects that may be chewing on your grass or chewing on its roots. Dish soap is very inexpensive, it makes insects very sick, and it is non-toxic. So the next time you find undesirable insects in your lawn, consider using one cup of dish soap mixed with three cups of water in a hose-end sprayer to treat your lawn. If you are going to try this as an insect control, I suggest doing so when your lawn will not be receiving any water or rain for several days. That way the residual of soap will remain on your lawn for a while instead of being rinsed off too soon. The idea here is to give the insects plenty of time to “enjoy” the soap. This simple recipe probably won’t actually cover your lawn with suds or lather, but there will be enough residue covering the blades of grass to affect chewing insects.

If you would like to get away from the use of highly toxic lawn and garden chemicals, you may want to consider reading some of the lawn and garden recipes put out by Master Gardener Jerry Baker. Although I am not an avid fan of Jerry Baker, I do believe he offers a breath of fresh air when it comes to remedies for the lawn and garden. You can always use your favorite browser to do a search on “Jerry Baker recipes” or “Safer lawn and garden chemicals”.

NEXT TIME: One Indicator That You May Have An Insect Problem In Your Lawn

The Use of Stepping Stones In High Traffic Areas

2005-04-14T21:00:00.000-04:00

Sometimes there are areas of a homeowner’s lawn that receive so much foot traffic and become so compacted that it may be better to install stepping stones than to bear the frustration of trying to grow quality turf in those areas.

Sometimes these high traffic areas are pathways to the garage or shed. Sometimes these pathways provide a shortcut to a car parked in the driveway or just lead to a common destination in your yard, like a flower or vegetable garden. When stepping stones are placed into a frequented pathway, you will have fewer concerns about compaction and the wearing of an unsightly path through your turf.

It is now common to find stepping stones in garden centers in a wide variety of shapes, colors and materials. Whatever type of stepping stones you decide to go with, there are a few considerations to keep in mind. First and foremost, you want to avoid stepping stones that may become slippery when wet. Another consideration is to avoid stepping stones that may have a relief (or raised pattern) if you want to use them along a path that will frequently get shoveled in the winter. When selecting stepping stones look for stones that will be easy to install, easy to maintain, and will last for many years.

When installing stepping stones, always be sure that the top of the stepping stone is level with the top of the soil. Stepping stones with top surfaces that are above the soil level not only become a tripping hazard, but can make mowing difficult and possibly even dangerous. An old butter knife can come in handy when recessing a stepping stone. By running the butter knife along the raised edge of the stone and pushing down as deep as your stepping stone is thick, you will be left with a tight outline of the stone. Then it is just a matter of removing all of soil inside the pattern you have cut. So that your stepping stone does not wobble, your finished hole should have a very flat bottom. Once this hole is finished, it is just a matter of dropping the stone in.

So the next time you’re considering what to do about those worn pathways through your lawn, consider installing stepping stones.

NEXT TIME: Your Lawn Loves A Good Lather

Why It’s A Good Idea To Alternate Your Mowing Patterns

2005-04-13T22:30:00.000-04:00

Most gasoline powered lawn mowers are relatively heavy. By always mowing your lawn in the exact same pattern you can unintentionally cause the compaction of the soil underneath your turf.

It is better for your lawn and the soil that it grows in for you to vary your mowing pattern whenever you mow. For example, for one mowing you might mow back and forth from the house to the street. The next time, you can mow side to side (from one neighbor’s side to the other neighbor’s side). A third time, you may try mowing on diagonals running in one direction. And a fourth time, mow on diagonals running 90 degrees to the previous diagonals.

The larger and heavier your mowing equipment is, the more important it is to vary your mowing patterns. But regardless of the size and weight of your mowing equipment, compaction is more likely to occur when the soil under your turf is more wet than dry. If it has rained recently, or your lawn has received a good watering, it will be more susceptible to compaction.

The reason you want to avoid the compaction of your soil is that once it is compacted water and air do not penetrate as well. And thus the roots of your lawn will not be as healthy as they could be. With enough compaction, grass will not grow at all. A case in point is a footpath that has been constantly walked on so that grass won’t even try to grow there any more. Or take the classic two-track road where you notice the grass grows on both sides and the center but not where the weight of the tires has rolled.

You will benefit the most from varying your mowing pattern at the beginning of the mowing season. At this time the soil is usually looser due to the recent heaving and the more recent thawing of the previous winter’s freeze.

NEXT TIME: The Use of Stepping Stones In High Traffic Areas

Your County Extension Office As An Information Source

2005-04-12T22:00:00.000-04:00

One of the most overlooked - and yet most useful - sources of information for a homeowner can be obtained from their local County Extension Office.

The agents and personnel who work in these offices have basically one mission. That mission is to answer questions and to provide information to the residents of their County pertaining to the plant life in their County. If you live in a rural farming County, your County Extension Office will have lots of information on crops that farmers grow in the County. If, on the other hand, you live in the big city, your local County Extension Office will be able to provide you with extensive information on such things as: lawns, trees and shrubbery, and vegetable as well as flower gardening. Not only are they experts regarding the plant life, they are experts on the type of pests that are commonly found in the County. They are experts on plant pests such as dandelions, crabgrass, poison ivy and many others. They can often supply you with valuable information regarding insect pests such as mosquitoes, gypsy moths, fire ants and many other nuisance insects. Your local County Extension Office would probably be able to help you if you also had problems with animals such as deer eating your roses or moles tunneling through your lawn.

Your local County Extension Office is there to help you. If they can’t answer your question, there’s a good chance they can point you in the right direction. If you find an insect chewing on your tomato plants or your cabbage or your roses (or whatever it is you GROW), you can even take a sample insect to your County agent and ask for help in identifying what the insect is and how best to prevent its damage. And although you can find the phone number and call your agent (look under County Government in your phone book), I highly recommend that you pay a visit to your County’s Extension Office. I say this because most Offices are filled with small booklets and pamphlets regarding dozens and dozens of topics such as local soils, local pest alerts, local climate conditions, and how-to guides that cover everything from growing a beautiful lawn to proper rosebush pruning.

There are a lot of books about lawn and garden care and there is a lot of information that can be had over the internet regarding lawn and garden care. But these two sources will rarely be specific to the place where you grow your lawn or garden. Your local County Extension Office, however, is about as specific as you can get. Again, I highly recommend that you pay them a visit. I know they will be happy to see you and try their best to answer any questions you may have.

NEXT TIME: Why It’s A Good Idea To Alternate Your Mowing Patterns

Is Your Lawn Growing In Clay Instead of Topsoil?

2005-04-11T23:00:00.000-04:00

With enough care, a homeowner could probably lay sod down on top of a large slab of concrete and get it to stay green. Of course, no one in their right mind would try this. And yet there are thousands upon thousands of people living in subdivisions who are just about trying to do the same thing.

All too often when a subdivision is being developed and massive re-grading is being performed, large amounts of topsoil are removed and sold at a high price for the rich topsoil that it is. Later, when it’s time to apply seed or sod to the landscape of a newly built home in such a subdivision, it will be applied to what is basically a subsoil. Unfortunately, all too often this subsoil contains a very high percentage of clay. Now mind you, clay has its benefits. Because it perks slowly, it will hold water and remain moist longer than a very sandy soil. Clay also tends to hold beneficial nutrients better than sand. However, between a heavy clay content and a very sandy content of the soil, there lies a much healthier content known as topsoil. Topsoil is ideally suited for growing grass, and in an ideal world your lawn would be growing in four or more inches of topsoil.

Topsoil contains extremely fine particles (such as those found in clay), very coarse particles (such as those found in sand), and - most importantly - lots of organic matter. Topsoil is very well-rounded and, as such, is perfectly suited for growing grass and many other plants. If you are trying to grow turf in soil that has too much clay or too much sand, you can (over time) make applications of topsoil and thus amend your soil, making it more suitable for growing turf.

There are a couple of things that will indicate you have a very high clay content in your soil. One is severe and persistent ponding after a heavy rainfall. Since the very tiny particles of clay do not allow water to drain through (or perk) very quickly, the water will stand on the surface for a long time. If the surface is sloped, another indication of high clay content after heavy rain is that the water will run-off quickly rather than soak in. One more indicator of high clay content in a soil is that once the soil has had most of its water dried out of it, it is hard and brittle - similar to concrete.

If you suspect that the clay content or the sand content of your lawn’s soil is too high, you can always apply topsoil. One dramatic way of doing this would be having large trucks deliver large amounts of topsoil and having this applied evenly all over your turf areas and then reseeding or restarting your lawn. This is NOT a method I recommend. I believe a much better approach would be to have just a few yards of topsoil delivered and dumped in an inconspicuous spot in your yard. Then from once a week to once a month, you can take a bit of this topsoil from the pile and scatter it throughout your lawn using a broadcast type spreader. It will be important to keep your pile of topsoil covered with a tarp or large piece of plastic so that when it is time for your to apply your topsoil it will be dry enough to fall through the hopper of your spreader. When topsoil is applied in this manner (small amounts on a regular basis), it will not destroy or damage your existing lawn.

Special Note: If you’re going to take the time, spend the money and go through the above amendment process in order to get more organic matter into your soil, then you should also be mulching when ever you mow. As I have stated in prior posts, mulching is one of the easiest and least expensive ways of putting organic matter back into the soil. Running a close second is applying compost, particularly if it is compost you have made yourself.

NEXT TIME: Your County Extension Office As An Information Source

How To Tell If Your Lawn Is Suffering From Lack of Water

2005-04-10T19:15:00.000-04:00

There are many homeowners who would just as soon let the grass in their lawn go dormant through the heat of the summer months. With the high cost of water, the rationing of water, and a busy lifestyle that just doesn’t allow much time to water, it’s understandable that so many homeowners feel this way.

Keep in mind, however, that a decision to allow a lawn to go dormant does not mean that it no longer needs water, even though when a lawn is dormant, it usually loses that lush green look. During dormancy, a lawn may look a duller shade of green, a bit more brown, or it may even appear thinner with a slightly silvery-blue color. But when letting your lawn go dormant, you must still provide occasional water in the absence of periodic rain. I would say, at a minimum, try to see to it that your lawn receives at least one-half to one inch cumulative water per week.

I have had homeowners ask me, “How can I tell if my lawn is too dry?” There is a very simple method to determining if your lawn is overly dry and needs water soon. Most people understand that when they walk across a healthy lawn they do not leave “footprints”. The grass normally springs back, leaving no trace that somebody has just walked on it. However, when your lawn and the soil it’s growing in are in desperate need of water, footprints across the lawn will remain visible for more than a few seconds. In fact, the footprints may remain visible for five to ten minutes or more.

So, if you decide to let your lawn go dormant but there has been no rain and no water applied to your lawn and you start noticing footprints wherever someone has walked - it’s time to give your lawn some water. Now keep in mind, I’m not suggesting heavy watering. Your aim here is not to make your lawn look lush again. Your aim is to provide enough water to keep the roots and the crowns of the grass plants in your lawn alive. Although your lawn may not look its best during dormancy, as long as it does not die due to excessive heat and extended periods without water, it will come back again and look fine once cooler temperatures return.

NEXT TIME: Is Your Lawn Growing In Clay Instead of Topsoil?

Don’t Force Your Summer Lawn In and Out of Dormancy

2005-04-09T22:00:00.000-04:00

During the growing season there is a period of time when many species of grass have depleted their reserves of food and energy in the effort to grow tall and produce seed. This time usually occurs just prior to the hottest days of Summer. These grasses, whether out in the wild or growing in a homeowner’s lawn, will go “dormant” during the hottest part of Summer unless they receive adequate amounts of water (be it from rain or the garden hose).

After the extreme heat of summer has passed and before the freezing temperatures of winter set in, most grasses will be spending their resources on producing food to be stored in their roots until the following Spring. At that time, the grass in your lawn will have enough reserves in storage to begin to grow again and start to make seed. During this process, most of these reserves will get used up, and the roots that were holding these reserves will become shorter, growing more shallow in the soil. So just when the hottest part of Summer begins, grass is naturally low on vigor and strength. The natural response to the heat (and possible drought situations) of summer is for grass to go into a “dormant” stage. During this stage the grass will slow or even stop growing - unless it is being artificially watered and fed.

Now given the information in the above paragraph, you must realize that, although your lawn may not look its best if you allow your lawn to go dormant, dormancy does not mean that your grass is dying. It is merely protecting itself until better conditions return. All too often a homeowner that does not water on a regular basis will look out onto their lawn after several days of extreme heat and say to themselves, “Oh my God! My lawn is dying in this heat!” Then they will proceed to drag out the garden hose and start watering their lawn. If a couple of days go by and their lawn looks only somewhat improved, they may decide, “I’ll water it some more!” What this homeowner is doing is sending a signal to their lawn that dormancy is not needed. Unfortunately, because the grass is now no longer dormant and is looking healthier, the homeowner may not water again until their lawn has again retreated into dormancy. I have seen homeowners do this - time and time again, all summer long.

The bottom line here is, do either one of two things. Number One: If you don’t like the look of your lawn when it is in a dormant stage (it does not look lush and green and healthy), then you must see to it that your lawn consistently receives approximately one inch of water a week all through the heat of summer. Or Number Two: If you do not want to water (or if you are unable to water) on a regular basis and your lawn goes into dormancy, then you should not force it in and out of dormancy all through the hot summer by arbitrary watering. It takes a lot of energy (which is in short supply) for your lawn to come out of dormancy. It is less stressful for your lawn if it has gone into dormancy to remain that way until more favorable temperatures return. If while a lawn is dormant it receives occasional rainfall or watering, it may remain dormant. Understand that when a lawn is dormant, the roots below the surface and the crown (or growing point of the grass plant) is still alive and it will come back.

NEXT TIME: How To Tell If Your Lawn Is Suffering From Lack of Water

Two Shrubs You Should Never Prune Until Just After They Have Flowered

2005-04-08T22:15:00.000-04:00

[NOTE: Today’s subject - although a bit off topic - is information that I felt was appropriate for this time of year.]

Several shrubs (and some trees) produce flowers only on the branches formed during the previous year’s growth. That is to say, no flowers will be produced on branches that are two or more years old. Yet many a homeowner - caught up in Spring fever - starts pruning their landscape shrubs very early in the Spring, snipping off most of last year’s growth.

They may unknowingly be removing the branches and buds that would have become the only showy flowers of their shrubs to appear that year. Many of the shrubs and ornamental trees that bloom in Springtime start with buds that were developed the prior Summer and Fall. This is one of the reasons why these plants can bloom so early in the new season. The buds are already formed and are just waiting for warmer temperatures.

One of the earliest blooming shrubs is Forsythia. It doesn’t take much warmth for Forsythia to bloom. One year in Michigan, during a freak warm spell, I actually saw Forsythia flowers popping in January. Another well known early Spring flowering shrub is Lilac. Like Forsythia, Lilac buds were formed the previous year and are only waiting for sufficient warmth to bloom. If in the early Springtime, a homeowner prunes away the previous year’s growth on either of these two shrubs, they will be denying themselves what would have been a dazzling display.

Actually, there are more than two shrubs or trees that you want to avoid pruning until just after they have flowered. I have listed some of the most common plants below.

SHRUBS:
Forsythia
Lilac
Flowering Quince
Bridal Wreath (Spirea)
Mock Orange
Flowering Almond
Weigela
Honeysuckle
Viburnum
Camellias
Azaleas
Rhododendrons

TREES:
Cherry
Crabapple
Dogwood

It is important to note here that once these shrubs and trees have flowered they will begin producing - albeit slowly - the buds for next year’s flowers. So, the bottom line here is, if you want to prune these plants do so as soon after they have flowered as possible. Do not wait until later (during the Summer or Fall) as by that time the buds will have already started forming.

The only exception to the above would be lightly pruning a few budded branches in the very early Spring, so that they can be taken indoors and forced to bloom. This, however, is outside of my area of expertise so I would recommend that if you are interested in this technique you search “forcing buds indoors” in your favorite search engine.

NEXT TIME: Don’t Force Your Summer Lawn In and Out of Dormancy

Choosing A Lawn Maintenance Contractor

2005-04-07T11:00:00.000-04:00

For a variety of reasons, many homeowners prefer to hire out some or all of their lawn care and landscape maintenance chores. If you are looking to hire a contractor for your mowing and trimming, or fertilizing and pest control, or even to care for your trees and shrubs, there are steps you can take to find and hire a contractor who will be best suited for your needs.

An easy way to find a maintenance service is to keep your eyes open as you come and go through your neighborhood. If you have a neighbor who is using the type of service that you are looking for and it looks as though the contractors are doing a good job, you can always approach this neighbor and - after complimenting them for how nice their lawn looks - ask them if they would recommend the service. If you find several contractors that you believe might be suitable, you can request an estimate from each of them. Of course, you may also find suitable landscape maintenance services in the yellow pages, in the newspaper classifieds under Business Services, or from solicitations you receive in the mail.

When you find candidates for the maintenance you need, you should always ask for an estimate - preferably in writing. You should also check to make sure that they have any required licenses and permits, especially if they may be applying pesticides on your property. They should also have liability insurance should anything ever go wrong. You should also ask potential contractors how long they have been in business. How much expertise and education do they have for the work they may be performing? Will they supply you with references?

It is important to know exactly the type of service you are going to expect and convey that to any potential contractor. If you are going to be asked to sign a contract, be sure you read and understand all parts of the contract before you sign. It’s much better now to have too many questions than to later have regrets for not having made sure that the contract you signed would meet your needs.

For many homeowners, hiring out their landscape maintenance is not an option but a necessity. Many homeowners simply don’t have the time. If you are one of these people, do yourself a favor and take the time necessary to find a contractor you will be happy with.

NEXT TIME: Two Shrubs You Should Never Prune Until Just After They Have Flowered

Many Different Types Of Grass Seed Are Now Available

2005-04-06T23:00:00.000-04:00

Many of the old standard lawn grass varieties have been greatly improved over the last couple of decades. Many of these varieties now require less maintenance, are more drought resistant and heat tolerant, and require less fertilizer and pesticide applications to look their best.

Kentucky Bluegrass - a long time favorite in northern regions - is now commonly available in varieties that are not only more heat and drought tolerant but also exhibit greater insect and disease resistance. New varieties of turf-type perennial rye grasses - often mixed with Kentucky Bluegrass - have now been bred to germinate more quickly and to tolerate foot traffic much better. Creeping Red Fescue and Chewings Fescue have long been mixed with Kentucky Bluegrass for use in lawns with shade and are even more shade and drought tolerant than they used to be. More recently developed for northern lawns, Turf-type Tall Fescues have undergone extensive development and are now commonly used for their very good heat and drought tolerances.

When a homeowner purchases grass seed for their lawn, premium seed with its higher price is worth that extra cost. But it is critical to read the label (and every part of that label) on a bag of grass seed before you make your purchase.

There are some key points to keep in mind when examining the label on a box or bag of grass seed. First of all, if it is your intent to create a permanent lawn with your seed, do not purchase the very large but inexpensive bag labeled as annual rye grass. This annual type of grass is intended to last one season - and only one season. In fact, avoid any seed mix that indicates that greater than five percent is annual rye grass. Grass seed labels will also show the weed content and other crop grasses on the label. Neither of these two should be more than half of one percent. The label will also indicate the amount of inert matter (the fill) and it should not be more than five percent. Additionally, if the container of seed contains any noxious weed seed, it will be stated on the label. My advice to you is that if any noxious weeds are listed on the label, do not use that grass seed. And finally, avoid any grass seed mix that includes bent grass or poa trivialis. These two can cause maintenance problems later.

If you are looking to establish a northern lawn and you are armed with the information in the above paragraph while making your selection, you will be purchasing a better grade of grass seed.

You will note that I have not mentioned southern grass varieties. All of my experience is with northern grass types. If you need information on southern grass varieties or on bermuda grass, I would recommend visiting http://www.bermudagrass.com/ or searching under “southern turf varieties” in your favorite search engine.

NEXT TIME: Choosing A Lawn Maintenance Contractor

Sod vs. Seed

2005-04-05T23:00:00.000-04:00

When deciding on sod or seed for a new lawn (or a section of a lawn), a homeowner needs to take into account several considerations. Both methods have their pros and cons.

SOD: Pros
You get fast - almost instant - results.
The initial result is of very high quality.
Your lawn will start out weed free.
Sod is better suited for slopes, as erosion will be less of a factor.
Sod can be installed at any time during the growing season.

SOD: Cons
Laying sod is more expensive than seeding.
There are fewer choices in the varieties of turf available.
Sod should be unrolled and installed within 24 hours.

SEED: Pros
There is a wide variety of grass species to select from.
Seeding is less expensive.
Seeding is better suited for re-working small, irregular areas of a lawn.

SEED: Cons
With seeding it takes longer to establish your lawn.
Seeding requires more planning, site preparation and watering.
Seeding large areas are jobs best left to late Summer or early Fall.

With the above pros and cons of sod vs. seeding, you should be able to determine which method (or combination of methods) is best suited for your situation.

NEXT TIME: Many Different Types Of Grass Seed Are Now Available

If You Want Your Lawn To Look Like A Golf Course - It’s Gonna Cost Ya

2005-04-04T23:00:00.000-04:00

Many homeowners believe that a properly cared for lawn should resemble a golf course.

The grounds on a golf course represent some of the most intensely managed areas of turf around. It is common that a large percentage of the operating budget for a golf course is spent just maintaining the landscape. It is also common for golf courses to utilize irrigation systems and frequent applications of fertilizer and herbicides to maintain the high standards expected. And it takes armies of grounds maintenance personnel routinely using expensive machinery - like core aeration machines to counteract compaction problems and precision cut reel mowers on the greens. I guess what I’m trying to say here is that if you had people and golf carts on your lawn all day, your lawn would also require a lot more special attention in order to look that great.

Since you probably do not have the kind of traffic on your lawn that a golf course has, it should not be necessary for you to expend the kind of resources that a golf course must in order to achieve a very attractive lawn. For example, the type of turf used on most golfing greens is bentgrass, which requires very short mowing to look its best. Although it is rare - at least in the Midwest - to find bentgrass as the turf of choice for the homeowner, it is not uncommon to find a homeowner trying to achieve a similar look by mowing their lawn entirely too short for the type of grass they’re growing.

If a homeowner maintains the height of their lawn between 3 and 4 inches, they are apt to find that watering once a week is all that their lawn needs. This weekly watering might even be supplied by rain. Another benefit to mowing your lawn high is a reduction in the amount of broadleaf weeds that can get a start in your lawn. Broadleaf weeds that start out in the shadow of taller blades of grass will often die from inadequate sunlight. It is also important to realize that turf mowed higher will have a lot more green leaves and thus be able to make a lot more of its own food through photosynthesis.

If you mow your lawn at a height of 3 to 4 inches it will require less water, less fertilizer, and less weed killers. It will better tolerate foot traffic. Simply put, your lawn will not only look better but it will be healthier.

NEXT TIME: Sod vs. Seed

Protecting Your Lawn From Grub Damage

2005-04-03T21:15:00.000-04:00

If you are finding that every year you lose sections of your lawn to grubs eating at the grass roots, there is a product called “milky spore disease” that you should be aware of. Unlike other chemical insecticides that may harm much more than their targeted organisms, milky spore disease only targets grubs, and particularly the grubs of Japanese beetles. It should be noted here that most lawns have grubs scattered about in the root zone, and most of the time this small population of grubs does not cause any problem.

If you have a section of lawn that appears dead or to be dying, there is a simple procedure to find out if the cause is a grub infestation. Take a knife and cut an L-shaped pattern (approximately 18 inches per leg) in the affected area. Gently peel back the sod from the apex of the incision. If you find more than just a couple of grubs then you’re pretty safe in assuming that the damage to that part of your lawn is being caused by grubs. Also, if this particular area of your lawn is being harmed by grubs, you will notice when you peel back the sod that it peels back much easier than anticipated. The reason for this is that the grubs are chewing on the roots of your turf, thus making it very easy to peel pack the sod.

If you have determined that you do, in fact, have a grub problem then I highly recommend that you consider milky spore disease as a safe, effective, and very long-term means of grub control. Milky spore disease is a dry powder consisting of bacterial microbes that will only harm grubs. When applied to your lawn as directed by the label’s instructions, milky spore disease will get consumed by the grubs under your turf and they will die. After they have died, the milky spore disease microbes inside the dead grubs will continue consuming the grubs. At each point in your soil where a grub has died there will be a concentrated population of milky spore disease. These concentrated pockets can last 15 or more years. And the next time a new grub is feeding in the vicinity of one of these concentrated pockets, it too will die and become another pocket of milky spore disease.

It should also be noted that milky spore disease has not been shown to be harmful to earthworms, birds or any other organisms besides the white grubs. And due to the nature of milky spore disease - and how it works - once it has been applied to your lawn it becomes unnecessary to reapply more milky spore disease every year. If you are interested in finding more information on “milky spore disease”, you will find plenty available on the internet via your favorite search engine.

NEXT TIME: If You Want Your Lawn To Look Like A Golf Course, It’s Gonna Cost Ya

Compost: The Natural Fertilizer

2005-04-02T23:00:00.000-05:00

The use of compost for your lawn and garden is one of the most overlooked and yet simplest things a homeowner can do to improve their landscape.

To increase the organic matter in the soil of their gardens and flower beds, a lot of people will go down to their garden center and purchase large and costly bags of peat moss. It might also be used as a mulch in these places. What these people may not know is that compost serves the very same purposes - and more. Compost is the end product of organic materials that have been acted by microbes. And when compost is mixed into the soil it will improve the soil structure as well as increase the amount of organic matter. An added benefit to compost is that it supplies a very safe and slow release of nutrients. Unlike peat moss, compost can be used as a top dressing not only in gardens and flower beds but also as a top dressing to your lawn. This top dressing technique can be very effective if you have more thatch in your lawn than you should.

For most people, the ingredients to make their own compost is free and readily available. All that is needed are leaves (raked up in the previous Fall) and grass clippings from the mowing season. Because leaves may not be readily available during the mowing season, at that time any high carbon source of cellulose - such as wood sawdust, newspaper that has been printed with non-toxic soy ink, or strips of corrugated brown cardboard - can be mixed with the grass clippings. Then when the Fall arrives, you can start mixing the grass clipping compost with the a new composting pile that will include the Fall leaves. That way you will have the necessary mix of a high carbon source (the leaves) with a high nitrogen source (the grass clipping compost) to further encourage the growth of microbes in your compost pile.

There are gardeners who are compost enthusiasts. Some of them spend a lot of time attending their compost piles. Their approach is very “active”. They frequently turn the pile, add water, and even measure its internal temperature, all in an effort to produce finished compost more quickly. None of this, however, is necessary. Another equally effective approach to composting is the “passive” approach. With this technique you simply add to your compost pile occasionally, mixing in the "green" with the "brown", and then let Nature decompose the pile over a longer period of time.

Many people have shied away from composting because they have been told and they believe that compost piles are always smelly. This, however, should never be the case. A compost pile that does not include kitchen scraps or dog droppings should not have an objectionable odor. If it should have more odor than you care for, this can usually be remedied by taking a few shovelfuls of topsoil and sprinkling it over the top of the compost pile. Not only will this help with any odor problem, but you will be adding more microbes to the ingredients in your compost pile which will help break them down even faster.

Some final thoughts on composting. Your compost pile will break down significantly faster if you occasionally sprinkle the top with water when it has become dry due to lack of rain. Also, depending on how much attention you give your compost pile, you can obtain a good end product in anywhere from one month to two years. You will know that your compost pile is ready to use when it has turned very dark brown (almost black) and has a very crumbly consistency. At this point, none of the ingredients that went into your compost pile will be recognizable.

NOTE: If you would like to try your hand at composting, there is a ton of information on the internet. Try search engines or gardening sites for the term “composting”.

NEXT TIME: Protecting Your Lawn From Grub Damage

The Ideal Time To Plant Grass Seed

2005-04-01T22:15:00.000-05:00

Although you may be able to plant grass seed at any time in the growing season, there is one time when planting grass seed is much less work and has a better chance of success.

The time when most people think about planting grass seed or spot-seeding bare patches in their lawn is the Springtime. But the biggest drawback then is that, by the time the seed has germinated and has reached a height of about an inch or so, the hot summer sun and heat will bear down on these new seedlings and take their toll. When you plant seed in the Springtime you must be absolutely vigilant on a daily basis to keep your seedlings moist and cool through the hot summer.

If you can afford to wait until just after the peak of summer heat, that is the time to start your seeding project. From this point on, the days should start getting a little cooler. And by the time your seedlings are an inch or so high there is much less chance that they will turn “crispy” under the Fall sun. Your seedlings will have all Autumn and all of next Spring to grow and toughen up before facing the extremes of the Summer sun. By that time they are much more likely to survive that heat.

Incidentally, just after the Summer heat is also the best time to plant or transplant most trees and shrubs. And, here again, the reasoning is the same. These plants will have almost a full year before they will be subjected to the extreme heat and drought conditions that can be brought on by the Summer sun. These plants will have almost a year for the roots to grow deeper and for the rest of the plant to become accustomed to its environment.

NEXT TIME: Compost: The Natural Fertilizer

Grass Trimmers or Weed Whips

2005-03-31T22:45:00.000-05:00

Today I’d like to spend a few minutes discussing what is commonly known as a weed whip or grass trimmer.

The first thing I’d like to mention is that this power tool is commonly available in two slightly different styles. One style of weed whip incorporates a long shaft that curves slightly down at the “business end” of the trimmer. Over the years, I have found that this particular style will not hold up nearly as long as the second style. This second style, which costs a bit more, incorporates an entirely straight shaft and is sometimes referred to as a gear-drive shaft. When it comes to the longevity of these two styles, the straight or gear-driven shaft will outperform the bent flex shaft of the less expensive model every time. This wouldn’t be worth mentioning as most people understand that you get what you pay for, but I have recently noticed that sometimes the difference in price between these two models can be as little as $10. So if you’re looking for a weed whip that is built to hold up over many more years, always go with the straight shaft trimmer.

I also want to include here just a few suggestions with regard to using a power grass trimmer. ALWAYS wear eye protection - preferably safety glasses - while using this tool. Also, due to the nature of the cutting action, it is highly recommended that you wear long pants while weed whipping. And as it is always possible that small objects can be thrown very quickly and some distance from the business end of this tool, other people and pets should be kept at a distance.

One more thing. Because the plastic filament “blades” of this tool spin so quickly, they actually become invisible. Care must be taken not to run these filaments too aggressively along your house, a fence or - especially - a living tree or shrub. This tool, when used too aggressively, can remove paint, cut into dried wood, and kill a tree by cutting into and girdling the cambium layer just underneath surface bark.

NEXT TIME: The Ideal Time To Plant Grass Seed

Dry vs. Wet Applications of Broadleaf Weed Killer

2005-03-30T23:00:00.000-05:00

If you find yourself with broadleaf weeds in your lawn that you’d like to get rid of, you have several different options:

If your lawn is almost weed-free - with only an occasional dandelion or other broadleaf weed - you may find it more convenient to just pull or dig them out by hand without the use of any kind of chemicals.

If you have more than just a few weeds but most of your lawn is weed-free, you may find your solution in the form of a ready-to-use spray bottle of point-and-shoot broadleaf weed killer.

If, however, you have broad sections of your lawn that are heavily infested with broadleaf weeds, you will probably want to consider one of two other options. The first option is the use of a granular weed-and-feed. This method can save you time because while you are feeding your lawn you are also taking steps to eliminate broadleaf weeds. It should be noted here that the chemicals used to kill broadleaf weeds work best when they are dissolved in water and make contact with the broad leaf surface of these weeds. So what this means is that if you are going to use a granular weed-and-feed on your lawn, you should do so at a time when your lawn and its weeds are wet. If you make this application of granular weed-and-feed early enough in the morning, you may find that your lawn and its weeds are very wet from the dew. Otherwise, it is best to water your lawn lightly before applying the granular weed-and-feed.

The second option (if you have a lot of broadleaf weeds) is to spray your entire lawn with a liquid containing broadleaf weed killer. This is one of my favorite methods as it does not require the wetting of the lawn before the application. At your local gardening center you can purchase pre-mixed bottles meant to be connected to the end of your hose for use in spraying weeds. Or, if you are up to it, you can make separate purchases of an empty calibrated hose-end sprayer and the liquid broadleaf weed killer, then do the mixing yourself.

Regardless of your method, if you are using chemicals to kill your weeds, there are some precautions. Be sure to read, understand, and follow all instructions on the label of any product you use. I strongly suggest wearing rubber gloves and waterproof boots while you are handling and applying broadleaf weed killing products. It is also important to not allow children or pets on a recently sprayed lawn while that lawn is still damp. And lastly, I would like to mention that if you are spraying your lawn, you should be very careful not to allow the spray to drift off the lawn areas and onto nearby shrubbery or into flower beds.

NEXT TIME: Grass Trimmers and Weed Whips

Granular Fertilizer Spreaders

2005-03-29T22:00:00.000-05:00

If you’re going to feed your lawn with a granular type of fertilizer, you basically have 2 choices as to the type of spreader you can use.

One option is a drop-type spreader. This type of spreader has been around for many decades. In a drop-type spreader, the fertilizer (or any other dry product you want to apply to your lawn) is placed in the hopper and then, while the spreader is being moved, the fertilizer is accurately metered out through adjustable slits at the bottom. Also, inside the hopper (just above the slits) there is an agitator bar that spins at the same time that one of the wheels on the spreader turns. When using this type of spreader it is important to use the off-lever at any time you do not want to be dropping the contents of your spreader. Like anything else, there are pros and cons to using this type of spreader. On the pro side, it can be used to deliver a very precise amount of product on your lawn. On the con side, sometimes this precision is not desirable. For example, have you ever noticed a lawn that appeared to have stripes of light and dark green running through it or an appearance of a checkerboard pattern? This is almost always the result of fertilizer being applied with a drop-type spreader.

The other option in spreaders is a type that is referred to as a broadcast spreader. With this type of spreader, the material being applied falls out of the hopper from an adjustable hole at the bottom then strikes a horizontally spinning plate which throws the material out in random waves. A common example of this type of mechanism is that used by street salting trucks during the winter. One of the advantages of the broadcast spreader when applying fertilizer is that you will not end up with stripes and criss-crosses through your lawn. Another advantage is that you will not have to be concerned with how accurately you overlap or don’t overlap each pass. Other advantages include: putting small amounts of fertilizer down evenly and putting large amounts of fertilizer down quickly. There are times, however, when the broadcast type should not be your choice of spreaders. If you are applying a product that must be applied very accurately across your lawn or if you are applying a product like a pesticide, then a broadcast spreader should not be your choice. If you are going to apply a granular type of weed-and-feed fertilizer or some type of insecticide mixed with your fertilizer, a broadcast spreader would have a tendency to throw this pesticide out into areas other than your lawn (perhaps into a flower bed or into a nearby swimming pool).

The bottom line here is, if you’re going to apply straight fertilizer (without any pesticides included) your best choice is probably the broadcast spreader. If, on the other hand, you want to spread any kind of pesticide (either by itself or mixed with fertilizer) then your choice should be the drop-type spreader. The ideal situation here would be to own both types of spreaders. That way you can choose the right spreader depending on the application. One last note: Any spreader that is kept empty, clean and dry when not in use can last for decades. When a spreader is not properly cared for, it can become unusable in one year’s time.

NEXT TIME: Dry vs. Wet Applications of Broadleaf Weed Killer

Selective vs. Non-Selective Herbicides

2005-03-28T22:00:00.000-05:00

What I’d like to discuss today is the difference between selective and non-selective herbicides.

There is a product on the market that is very popular called Round-Up. This product is a vegetation killer. This product does not distinguish between a dandelion in your lawn or grass growing in the cracks of a sidewalk. If it is green, this product can be used to kill it. It is therefore referred to as a non-selective herbicide.

Another very popular product on the market is called Weed-B-Gone. This product is also a vegetation killer. However, this product’s purpose is to kill only broadleaf plants (or weeds). Because this product will not harm the grass in your turf, it is considered a selective herbicide.

If you are looking for a product to spot-treat broadleaf weeds in your lawn, you must select a product that is a selective herbicide. Otherwise, instead of just killing a weed here and there in your lawn, you will end up with dead spots wherever you have sprayed. If, on the other hand, your intent is to get rid of vegetation from the cracks of the sidewalk or from a mulched portion of a flower bed, you will want to use a non-selective herbicide. Oftentimes the undesirable plants you will find in the cracks or sticking up through the mulch will be a combination of both weedy grasses and broadleaf weeds.

The important thing to remember here is that if you are looking for a product to use on your lawn, it must be a selective herbicide - a product that will select out and kill only dandelions, plantain, thistle, or whatever broadleaf weeds may be in your lawn.

My advice to anyone that is unfamiliar with lawn chemicals is to be sure and describe accurately to your store clerk the type of plant you are trying to kill and to explain to them whether it is in your lawn or not.

I mention these two different kinds of herbicides today because, first, I have seen all too often the results of a homeowner unknowingly spot spraying their lawn with a product that is non-selective, such as Round-Up. It is not a pretty picture. And secondly, I have seen the frustration of homeowners repeatedly trying to kill different types of grass in the cracks of their sidewalks or the mulch of their flower beds with a selective broadleaf weed killer, such as Weed-B-Gone.

My final note here is that you must always read and understand the entire instructions on the label of any yard chemical you might use.Also, follow any instructions and take any precations that are advised.

NEXT TIME: Granular Fertilizer Spreaders

P.S. If you find any of my posts helpful or if you have any comments or recommendations, I would be grateful to hear from you.

How Much Should You Water Your Lawn?

2005-03-27T22:45:00.000-05:00

Most lawns will do just fine with about 1 inch of water a week. This amount will provide the type of watering needed to encourage the grass roots to grow deep. Oftentimes this amount will be provided by rainfall, especially in the Springtime. So if a week has gone by since you have watered and there has been no rain, watering your lawn is in order. And if there is no rain in the forecast for the next few days, I suggest watering your lawn thoroughly so that it receives approximately 1 inch of water.

One of the easiest ways to know when you have applied an inch worth of water is, before you start watering, to place tuna cans or similar containers inside the area to be watered. When these containers are holding an inch of water, your lawn should have received enough to last it another week.

There are times when you can water your lawn and deliberately put less than one inch of water down. One situation would be that it rained several days ago but only half an inch. In this case you could make up the difference by giving it only another half an inch of water. Another situation where you might want to water but not to a full inch is where the soil is not particularly dry and the weatherman’s forecast is for heavy rain within the next few days. The type of watering I have been discussing here is considered “deep watering”, and this type of watering can keep the soil and the roots of the turf moist for several days.

There is a second type of watering that serves an entirely different purpose. This type is referred to as “syringing”. With syringing it is not the amount of water that you put down that is important, but rather the timing of that watering. The purpose of syringing is to cool down and refresh heat and sun-stressed turf during mid-afternoon. An analogy here is a person baking on a sunny beach and spraying themselves with a mister of cool water. The technique of syringing your lawn involves applying water in a fine spray to the surface of the turf only. If you use an irrigation system to water your lawn, syringing can be accomplished by simply turning on each zone for just a few minutes. If, on the other hand, you manually water your lawn, the nozzle on the end of your hose should be adjusted to a spray while you quickly cover just the top of the blades of grass.

As I have mentioned before, there is an old wives tale that states, “You should not water your lawn on a hot sunny day because you will burn it.” And I will say again, this is bunk. The fact of the matter is, a lawn that is sprayed with the syringing method can - and will - take in that water through the surface blades of grass, and this will go a long way toward helping your turf survive extreme heat and sun-stress.

NEXT TIME: Selective vs. Non-Selective Herbicides

When Is The Best Time Of Day To Water Your Lawn?

2005-03-26T23:00:00.000-05:00

Some homeowners seem to find that they can only water their lawn when it is convenient for them. This for them may mean early in the day, late in the day, or even after sunset (if an irrigation system is being used). There is one time during the day, however, when a lawn stands to benefit the most from being watered. That time is after any overnight dew has evaporated and before mid-afternoon when the day’s heat is strongest.

The reason you should wait until after your lawn is dry (no longer damp from the overnight dew) is because there are certain water-borne fungi that require 8 to 10 or more hours of moisture before they will start to flourish. For example, if it began raining at 6 p.m. and stopped at 11 p.m., but then because of cooler night temperatures your lawn remained wet until sunrise at 6 a.m., your lawn will already have been continuously wet for 12 hours. If you were to begin watering your lawn - either manually or via an irrigation system - at 6 a.m., you would be extending the time that your lawn has been continuously wet and thereby increasing the possibility of a fungus problem. It would be much better in this situation to hold off watering until the previous day’s rain or the previous night’s dew has completely evaporated and your lawn has become dry to the touch. Once it has become dry it would take another 8 to 10 or more hours of being continuously wet for any fungi to start flourishing again.

Another important consideration in the watering of your lawn is to have watered the lawn just prior to the time of day that it needs it most. Since mid-afternoon is usually the hottest part of the day, it is best to have finished watering by this time. If you have watered prior to the hottest part of the day then your lawn will be in much better condition to survive the coming heat.

There is an old wives tale that says, “One should not water their lawn on a hot sunny day because it will burn the lawn”. Although there is much I could say about this old wives tale, I will refrain and simply say that this is bunk. Your lawn will do far better if you give it the water it needs prior to the hottest part of the day than if you just stand by and watch it bake in the sun.

In simple terms, the best time to water your lawn is anytime between about 10 o’clock in the morning and approximately 2 o’clock in the afternoon.

NEXT TIME: How Much Should I Water My Lawn?

How Often Should You Mow Your Lawn?

2005-03-25T21:30:00.000-05:00

For many busy homeowners, the only time they have to mow their lawn is on the weekend. However, if your lifestyle allows you to mow your lawn when you see fit, then I do have some suggestions as to when it is most desirable to mow.

The ideal time to mow your lawn is when the length that you will be removing is equal to 1/4 to 1/3 of the length that will be left behind. An example of this for a lawn that consists mostly of Kentucky Blue Grass and that is being maintained at a height of 3 inches, is to mow when the turf height reaches 4 inches. If you do this you will be cutting off 1 inch, and that 1 inch represents 1/3 of 3 inches (which is the height of the grass after the mowing). Another example would be trying to maintain your turf at 2 inches. In this case, when the height of your lawn reaches 2-1/2 inches it would be time to mow. Here you are removing 1/2 inch and what remains is 2 inches long. (1/2 inch is 1/4 of 2 inches.)

Please note, this is not rocket science. The aim is to avoid mowing such that you’re removing half or more of the turf’s height at a time. When you cut that much off during one mowing, it will put your turf under unnecessary stress. Additionally, it will not allow you to easily mulch as you mow. I have seen all too often where a homeowner will let their lawn overgrow to maybe 6 inches and then mow their lawn with their mower set at 2 inches. That practice is extremely hard on the turf.

In the Springtime, when most grasses have an accelerated surge in growth, it is healthier for your lawn to mow more often. This could mean more than once a week depending on how much water, rain, sunshine and nutrients your lawn is receiving. Oftentimes during the heat of the summer months, lawns may go into dormancy. When and if this happens to your lawn, you will find that your lawn does not need to be mowed for much longer periods of time.

So when it comes to the timing of your mowing, just keep in mind to mow it as necessary so that you’re not removing too much of its growth at any one mowing.

NEXT TIME: When Is The Best Time to Water Your Lawn?

The Benefits of Mulch Mowing

2005-03-24T20:14:00.000-05:00

In my last tip I talked a bit about thatch. I would now like to discuss mulch mowing - the mowing of turf where the clippings are not sent to a catcher. They are instead held suspended under the deck, where they are continuously re-cut until they are of such a fine consistency that they drop back into the lawn. There are many homeowners who have a false belief that this type of mowing will cause or increase thatch. This is not true.

Just above the surface of the soil, the thatch layer consists mostly of dead and living grass roots. After mowing a lawn with a mulching mower there is a fine layer of grass clippings that will be lying below the surface of the turf. Some of these clippings may fall through and actually rest on top of the thatch layer. However, the fact of the matter is that, wherever they land, all of these finely chopped grass clippings will break down usually in less than 7 to 10 days. These clippings decompose by being acted on by microbes in the soil that the lawn grows in. This decomposition is accelerated each time it rains or the lawn is watered. It is important to note here that during this decomposition of the grass clippings all of their nutrients are released. Many of these released nutrients will find their way back into your growing lawn. Research indicates that as much as 10 to 15 percent of a lawn’s required nutrients can be applied by simply using a mulching mower. This means the cost of feeding your lawn can be reduced.

The use of a mulching mower has other benefits as well. Until the cut clippings have decomposed they will help shade part of the lawn and any exposed soil, which will slow water loss in your lawn and inhibit the germination of weed seeds. Some of the most immediate benefits to mulching your lawn are: not needing to collect clippings in a catcher that weighs your mower down; not having to continually empty that catcher; not having to store garbage bags full of smelly clippings; and knowing that you are not unnecessarily contributing to the landfills.

Another thing you may want to consider if you do not have a mulching mower is mowing your lawn with a mower that has a side-chute attached. If you go this route you may have to overlap a bit more while you are mowing but the net effect will be very similar. And lastly, though you should always avoid mowing your lawn while it is wet, this is particularly true if you are using a mulching mower. Mowing a wet lawn with a mulching mower will cause wet clumps of grass to be deposited on your lawn and the underside of the mowing deck to become packed with mushy grass.

NEXT TIME: How Often Should I Mow My Lawn?

Don’t Get Sold On Power Raking

2005-03-23T21:00:00.000-05:00

There are many homeowners – and lawn care providers, as well – who believe that power raking should be a part of every Spring clean-up. My experience has been that power raking is rarely necessary for most lawns. For example, advocates of power raking usually claim that it will solve the problem of excess thatch. Although it may indeed remove thatch, usually it will also remove perfectly healthy grass plants or slice-and-dice them so that they will soon die. After a lawn has been power raked there is a considerable amount of exposed soil throughout the “lawn”. It may take weeks – sometimes months – for a lawn to recover from this treatment. Also, while it is recovering there is a very good chance that both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass will sprout and take hold in those bare areas.

The fact of the matter is, a half an inch or so of thatch is actually beneficial to your lawn. If, however, your lawn feels spongy as you walk across it, you may indeed have an excess of thatch. A much better solution than power raking is core aeration. A core aeration machine punches holes into the surface of the soil then pulls out and deposits small plugs of soil all across the lawn. These cores should not be raked up or disturbed. They should be allowed to remain on the surface of the lawn until they have been rained on or watered a couple of times. When the soil in these cores becomes wet, it will run down to the thatch layer and introduce microbes into that layer. The net effect of this process is that the thatch layer is now being composted by having soil both above and below. This is a very natural process and it does not tear up your lawn. Any remaining debris from the coring plugs can then be raked up, mowed up or just left to decompose.

An important consideration here is that the core aeration process does much more than naturally reduce the thatch layer. If the soil your lawn is trying to grow in has been compacted due to heavy foot or vehicle traffic, then core aeration is probably the best method to correct this situation. Also, after core aeration more water can find its way into the lawn’s root system as opposed to running off the hard surface. Yet another benefit is that it allows more oxygen and fertilizer to find it’s way into your lawn root zone.

So the bottom line here is that if your lawn needs to be treated for excess thatch or if the soil your grass is growing in is compacted, you’ll get much better results by using the core aeration technique than by power raking.

NEXT TIME: The Benefits of Mulch Mowing

When You Absolutely Positively Should Not Use Pre-Emergent Crabicide

2005-03-22T22:00:00.000-05:00

If you, as a homeowner, decide in the Springtime that you want to apply grass seed to your lawn in the coming months, then it would be best to forgo an application of pre-emergent crabicide (or a Springtime fertilizer that also contains this crabicide). Many of the chemicals used as a pre-emergence crabicide are not specific to crabgrass. Several of these chemicals will also kill or inhibit the sprouting of desirable grass seeds as well. If you have small areas in your lawn that need special attention and a little extra grass seed, an extra heavy raking in these areas may undo the effect of pre-emergence crabicide that has already been applied. If, however, your intent is to over-seed much of your existing lawn, you will have much better results if you have not applied a pre-emergence crabicide beforehand.

If you have had problems with crabgrass in your lawn in the past, the timely application of pre-emergence crabicide is generally considered the best prevention. Now, if your intent is to over-seed your lawn with desirable grass seed and to forgo the application of a pre-emergence crabicide, you still have controls available to you. One such control is the use of a post-emergent crabicide (common crabgrass killer). This type of product is applied to areas of the lawn containing crabgrass for the purpose of killing just the crabgrass. Although this may be a more labor intensive alternative to pre-emergence control of crabgrass, it is a viable option when it is your intent to over-seed your lawn. In other words it’s much easier to prevent the crabgrass from ever getting started than it is to kill it once it has started to invade your lawn.

And just so you know, the very best and most natural control of crabgrass is to keep your turf thick, dense, and mowed high. Crabgrass tends to get its start in lawns that are thin and mowed too short. The crabgrass seed will only sprout when the conditions are ideal - with an excess of water and an abundance of sunshine. Keeping your turf tall and thick keeps the crabgrass seed (down at the soil level) out of the sunlight and it cannot germinate. And watering should be minimized, only done when needed in the absence of rain.

NEXT TIME: Don’t Get Sold on Power-Raking

Don’t Undo the Effectiveness of Your Crabicide Application

2005-03-21T22:30:00.000-05:00

Before getting into the details of my 4th tip, it’s important that the homeowner understand a few things here. The first thing is that crabgrass is an annual plant; any time it is exposed to freezing temperatures it is going to die. Another thing is that every year crabgrass starts new from seed - and these seeds are already in your soil. They are extremely tiny, and research has shown that they can survive alive but dormant in the soil for many, many decades until the conditions are right for them to sprout.

For example, in the Springtime there may be an unusually warm period during which crabgrass seeds can sprout. But if after several days of this warm weather the temperatures should drop again below freezing, all the new crabgrass seedlings are going to die. The point here is that in early Spring when temperatures are still dropping below freezing (even if only overnight), you still have Mother Nature protecting your lawn against the emergence of crabgrass. Once temperatures no longer drop below freezing, crabgrass can sprout and may begin to take over your lawn.

So if you’re trying to prevent crabgrass, it is important to apply a pre-emergent crabicide while temperatures are still occasionally dropping below freezing because this chemical only kills crabgrass sprouts in their earliest stages. If crabgrass has started to establish itself, it is the freezing temperatures that will kill it, not the pre-emergent crabicide. But once this chemical is down, crabgrass cannot establish itself - if it hasn’t already - regardless of the temperature.

One more bit of information here. The chemical barrier that pre-emergence crabicide leaves at the surface of the soil can be destroyed with heavy raking. In other words, heavy raking should be avoided after an application of this crabicide, as this has a tendency to undo much of the protection that the crabicide was offering.

If any of the above seems confusing to you, just remember this: do your heavy raking early, apply the crabicide, and then do not do any more heavy raking until the Fall.

NEXT TIME: When You Absolutely Positively Should Not Use Pre-Emergent Crabicide

Early Spring Cleanup

2005-03-20T17:30:00.000-05:00

To recap my first two tips:
1) Make sure you start the season with a sharp mower blade.
2) Maintain a sharp blade throughout the mowing season.

This post is about my 3rd tip, which concerns early Spring cleanup. Since your lawn has had little or no attention through the winter months, chances are good that it now requires special attention. If there are any leaves from the previous autumn still laying on your lawn, it's now time to make sure they're raked up. There may also be small twigs or branches under trees that have fallen to the ground since last autumn. Anything else - such as litter, kid's toys, pet droppings, or whatever you may find that doesn't belong on your lawn - should also be picked up.

If you feel that a vigorous hard raking is necessary for your lawn, this should be done as early as is possible in the Springtime. This may mean raking even before you see signs of fresh growth in this year's lawn. By giving your lawn this vigorous raking now, not only will you be removing debris that would otherwise be dulling your mower blade but you will have this chore done early enough to complement an application of crabicide.

To get the best bang for your buck, crabicide should be applied after any hard raking is done and while nighttime temperatures still drop below freezing. This technique is critical if you have had any problems with crabgrass sprouting in your lawn in the past.

I will discuss the implications of this technique in my next tip.

NEXT TIME: Don't Undo the Effectiveness of Your Crabicide Application

Keeping Your Blade Sharp Over Longer Periods of Time

2005-03-19T18:15:00.000-05:00

Once you know that your mower blade is sharp there are several things you can do to help it stay that way for a longer period of time.

When you start your mower, always try to do so on a clean, flat, hard surface. In other words, avoid starting your mower over uncut grass, gritty concrete or loose sandy soil. The ideal situation here is to start up your mower such that, as it revs up to speed, the blade will not be encumbered in any way and it will not be sucking up loose debris from underneath the deck. I have seen homeowners start their mowers on a sidewalk or driveway where there was loose grit or sandy soil on the concrete and below the mower. If you do this, your mower will lift this light weight debris and the sharp blade will strike these small particles and it will immediately start to take the sharp edge off the blade. If you understand the concept of sandblasting, you'll understand what I am trying to say.

The mower blade is meant to be striking only the fresh supple blades of uncut grass. Anything that offers more resistance to the blade than this is going to cause the blade to become duller than it should be much faster. Another common practice of both homeowners and lawncare providers is to use a mower to suck up and/or mulch dried leaves on a lawn. I am not suggesting that you avoid doing this - in fact I have done it myself on many occasions - but you should understand that dry tree leaves are going to take their toll on the sharpness of your blade. This was never a problem for me because I was in the habit of sharpening my mower blades on a daily basis. Most homeowners won't be doing that. If you are going to suck up leaves in the fall with your mower, I highly recommend that you sharpen (or have sharpened) your mower blade before beginning next season's routine mowing.

Another all-to-common observation I have made with homeowners is not walking out onto their lawn before mowing and picking up any debris that doesn't belong under a powered-up lawn mower's deck. Examples of this include mowing over: litter, children's toys, small tree branches, or - god forbid - a sprinkler head that has not fallen back down into place after watering. There are many other objects that will take the edge off a sharp mower blade. This is one of the reasons why it is important to walk out onto your lawn before starting up the mower.

If you use common sense and inspect your lawn before mowing you should have little problem keeping your mower blade sufficiently sharp to last the mowing season.

NEXT TIME: Early Spring Cleanup

2005-03-19T02:21:00.000-05:00

A dated picture of Paul.

Would you shave yourself with a dull butter knife?

2005-03-18T23:14:00.000-05:00

Whether you are using a power mower with a rotary blade or a manual "reel" type mower, the cutting edge of the blade must be maintained.

At best, a dull blade will leave a jagged edge at the top of the remaining blades of grass instead of a nice straight clean cut. At worst, a dull blade will not even cut the grass blades. It will just whack at the grass blades and tear off the top growth. This may even leave the turf with a light, almost white, appearance at the top or mowing height. When this happens, it weakens the grass plants and therefore the entire lawn. A weakened lawn will be more susceptible to other conditions that are unhealthy to the lawn.

The easiest way to tell if the mower blade needs to be sharpened is to look at the result of a recent mowing. If you pull out and closely examine a few leaves of grass here and there from the lawn and they look more pulverized than cleanly cut, it is time to sharpen the blade.

If you are up to sharpening the blade from a power mower yourself, be sure to disconnect the spark plug before removing the blade. If you want to be sure your blade is properly sharpened and balanced or if you are using a reel type mower, I suggest taking your mower to a mower shop that has the equipment to professionally sharpen your blade.

NEXT TME: Keeping your blade sharp over longer periods of time.